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Cozy Construction Chapters.

 

Chapter 19 - Wings, Ailerons & Wing Attach to fuselage

Started 05/03/2008 finished 02/13/2009 Hours worked this chapter :198 finished

Purchased wing core and winglet from Feather Lite save some time, I needed a jump start.

Built a 18"h X 16"w X 12'L table to hold the wing jigs. Glued on each holder jig the pager templates then cut them out with my band saw.

Wing section test fit, some small adjustments needed.

Wing cores set in jigs for test fit.

Macro section together trailing edge to shear web, spar cap.

Next I macro the leading edge parts of the wing, I did not want the shear web to change the alignment of the overall wing shape. Be sure not to glue the leading and trailing edges section together, I put wax paper at the cross section joint.

Hard attachment points to main spar. I used a hot wire loop to cut the wing-attach depressions, it worked fast and clean.

 Take your time with the shear web, I cut the bid a little long. During the wet out I started on one side with a small gap 1/8 or less cutting the other over run with shears. This way I had to trim to size on one side only.

Wing attachment hard points floxed in place then weighted down till curded.

The inboard hard point runs from top and bottom wing surfaces, you might also be able to see the reinforcements glass layups.

Here you see the right and left wings at the same stage mating the leading edge to the shear web using macro. Make sure you have enough so that all the air bubbles get pushed out. Follow the plans method build the macro up in the center of the joint so as not to trap any air.

Prep for the spar cap, I used plastic garbage bags cut into sheets and taped in place to keep the wing foam clean during this step.

On the right wing I am installing the Nav 2 , Nav 1 is on the canard. I used my dermal tool to cut the cable grove and a 1/4" X 24" drill bit to create the angle hole to the electrical conduit.

In this picture you can see the rudder conduit coming out just forward of the trailing edge. The green tape is there to protect the conduit during wing construction. I will be using a hidden bell cranks to control the rudders.

Several shots of me working on the spar caps both right, left, top and bottom of the wings.

One thing I found out is while the layup is still wet, (just after you've finished with the epoxy) to remove the garbage bags that I had taped down to protect the wings during spar cap glass. This give a smooth finish when you put the peel-n-ply down. Remember do not over fill the caps....

After cure I used a razor saw to cut the "S" glass flush with the wing tips.

Glassing the top of the wing, came out real smooth, I made sure not the fiddle with it. I have over done it before. Thanks to my loving wife Lynne during these large layups, it takes two people to get the cloth to lay down true and straight. 

At the wing tip you add the big re-enforcements for the rudder install later, I peel-n-ply the 36" bid lay up on both wings.

I used green painter tape along the leading edge of the wings, it made it so much easer during knife trim. It doesn't pull the foam off or leave any tape glue behind. Nice...True and strait.

Glassing the bottom is about the same, in this picture you can see the wing root, with the 4" overlap on the shear web. Peel-n-ply around the outboard hard points getting ready for the UNI re-enforcements later.

I got this idea from many other builders, and it worked great, went to "Wally World" Wall-Mart purchased 100 spring type close pins. Used them to clamp the aluminum angle down tight, keep the trailing edge straight and true. Thanks Guys.

At the wing tip you can just see the peel-n-ply that is required for the rudder layup later on.

Can't wait till I'm flying.

Prep work, removing foam to make room for the elevator control bell crank, push rods and brackets.

In this picture you can see that I am not using the phenolic bearing cs150, I changed it for the FMN10. I added the aluminum inserts with nut plates to make the bearing removable.

Glassing the ribs, I put caulk in the nut plats bolt holes to keep out the epoxy, works like a charm.

Here you can see the elevator cut free, and some of the prep work on the wing, getting ready for glassing.

I found that a par of pliers works great to twist off the peel-n-ply foam in the tight spot of the elevator root. Still have a lot of hand sanding to get it just right but this makes a quick job of most of it. Don't forget to score the foam to give you a clean line.

Glassing up inside of the wing torque tube channel, don't over do it there's not a lot of extra room.

It makes it easer to glass the elevator pocket if you stand the wing on the floor leading edge down. You can just see a stack of board I used to hold up the wing tip, leveling the trailing edge.

Adding the leading edge weight to the elevators.

Glassed the leading edge, you can also see the hinge hard points under the glass.

I cut a V notch in two scrap block of wing foam to hold the elevators in place. The table aileron is sitting on was built lower for the wings construction.

In this shot you can see the ribs ends glassed and the hinges halves are popped riveted in place. In the back ground you can just make out the wing is notched out for the hinges. I used aluminum angle to keep the three hinges in alignment.

Storing the wing on the wall until needed. I used ladder hangers.

Start of the wings mating to the main spar.

Checking and re-checking during the drilling of the hard points. I've got one shoot at getting this right.

Take your time, make sure not to get the hard point to warm, I move around and used two whole saws which I got from Ace Hard Ware.

Two weekend later and the job was done. I used hardware bolts coated with oil temporally, during the flox of the LWA9 bushings. I did not want to find myself with permanently mated wings. A little of the flox got on two of the bolts but with the oil and a few good raps with a rod they popped right out. Then a final test fit with the real bolts, all is good.

Here is my water level with blue food coloring, a funnel as a reservoir, and 30' for 3/8 tubing. Worked like a charm.

On to the next chapter, getting closer to finished, just keep going.

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