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Messages - go ez

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Hangar Flying / Re: LONG EZ manual gear won't stay up
« on: April 13, 2014, 12:10:00 PM »
I use a loop of bungee rubber that I flip over the handle - whether locking up or locking down.
Light, cheap, visible security, and simple - just like Rutan suggested. :)

For Sale/Wanted / Re: 2011-12 Aircraft Spruce Catalogue
« on: February 18, 2014, 02:23:32 PM »
Hi I have sent it directly to your email David - the canardfinder at att dot net one (as the other was undeliverable)

For Sale/Wanted / Re: 2011-12 Aircraft Spruce Catalogue
« on: February 06, 2014, 02:12:50 PM »
Hi Aircraft Spruce
Thanks for your interest and post.

Our Eze (top right) which first flew in March 2003 was started by the late Bill Henderson and his son Philip, with a licence signed by Carolyn Rutan in July 1977 and was finished by me and Mike Roper.

We were amazed and really proud to be the only non-Rutan built and only UK registered aircraft on the front of your Rutan tribute 2010-11 catalogue, all pictured with the great man.

With the kind help of Brian Strack, we got the catalogue and hence for posterity that can go with our 3rd Edition VariEze Handbook, signed for me by both Burt & Mike Melville at Oshkosh in 2005 when  the White Knight , SpaceShip One and Global Flyer flew in.

I was amused that when Burt signed the handbook, he turned to Mike with a grin and said 'that'll be on ebay shortly'.

No chance Burt - some things are priceless.


Hangar Flying / Re: Fuel Tank Help
« on: January 13, 2014, 12:58:59 PM »
I agree about not cutting the tank strake. Asking for trouble un-necessarily.

I used water rather than fuel to flush out the debris - more plentiful, gives ability to use a hose to let it continually gush out the filler cap, cheaper, less dangerous and the contaminant stuff floats better.

Retrofit drains - use at least 1/8" thick  aluminium insert - better 3/32" or 1/4" if you have room - ie more threads to provide seal.
Grind away the outer skin and foam but don't break into  the inner skin.
Gently rough up the inner skin to avoid de-lamination with the foam, drill-dimple the surfaces of the insert for torque resistance, make it square (with smooth corners/edges) rather than round for the same reason.
Drill & tap it before fitting and plug the threaded hole flush with candle wax.
Clean it then sand it epoxy wet with epoxy wetted paper to get a good non-oxidising bond to the aluminium. Fit it epoxy wet with plenty of flox and then fit the  outer skin in one operation.

When cured, lightly drill a pilot hole say 1/8" dia through the skins and insert, then very gently open out the hole with a hand file - this avoids risking de-laminating the inner skin from the insert which is a risk if you just drill right through.
Don't over tighten the drain valve - use weak threadlock like Loctite 243 to fuel seal it and lock it in place.

And when you start flying !!!! - every couple of hours check the tank screens visually when nose down, check the gascolator screen & bowl and the  carb finger strainer  until the contamination disappears

Hangar Flying / Re: Weight & Balance
« on: November 30, 2013, 04:32:48 AM »
Really you need to do a full from scratch W&B on the a/c after it is finished  - first empty, then with say half and then full fuel to derive  the fuel fuselage station for your aircraft to use for ops flight W&B calcs. Dont automatically use Rutan handbook data for fuel, pilot and P2  position and even canard leading edge etc etc etc unless your a/c conforms to Rutan's prototype a/c planform dimensions

You could work it out by knowing the geometric shape & depth of the tanks but its a stretch to do accurately and sufficiently such that you are happy to use that data for the life of your aircraft (and your life too!).


Hangar Flying / Re: Yes, that was fun.
« on: November 23, 2013, 12:22:22 PM »
We missed you Bill!

Hangar Flying / Re: Rudder cable runs - ADVICE needed please
« on: November 14, 2013, 09:44:29 AM »
Email sent as requested

For Sale/Wanted / Wanted - Cozy MkIV Nosewheel assembly
« on: November 12, 2013, 12:01:41 PM »
Pl advise if anyone has one or knows of one surplus to requirements.

Hangar Flying / Re: Rudder cable runs - ADVICE needed please
« on: November 12, 2013, 11:57:22 AM »
Use the standard AN210-2A (MS24566-2B) ones - ie just the same as those Rutan specified on the std upper rudder cable brackets.
I also made equivalently nicely radiused lightweight thinner aluminium brackets with 3/16" pivot bolt and 3/16" attach bolts & nut plates  - the loads are much lower so no need for 1/4" pivot bolt or hefty brackets etc.


Hangar Flying / Re: Rudder cable runs - ADVICE needed please
« on: November 11, 2013, 01:58:01 PM »
Yes -  for each side I made up another pulley bracket set and pulley and used a continuous run of 1/16" cable from the rudder pedal to the wing root attachment - use two split pins to hold the cable in place in exactly the same way as the original pulley. I also took the nyloflow cable sleeve right through the firewall right to the pulley.
Simpler, lighter and very convenient - and safer too as there is no risk of a thimble assembly snagging on the firewall hole and restricting braking.
Reliable and trouble free in service since 2003.

Photos available if required

Hangar Flying / Re: Three Ez questions
« on: October 25, 2013, 07:41:35 AM »
Ref Q1  - I vaguely recall Rutan specifically addressed this in the Canard Pusher and vetoed it - can't remember exactly where - or the reason - may well have been excess fuel transfer / CoG related and/or fuel proximity to the styrofoam wings.

Ref Q2 - brakeline internal diameter doesn't matter really as the fluid transfer is negligable but I agree aluminum is a bad idea due to gear and caliper flex - nothing wrong with nyloflow - functional & light - Rutan recommended stratoflex or similar braided hose in the last 8 - 12" / the area of the caliper end where there are  heat & light etc issues.


Hangar Flying / Re: Matco or Grove for original Varieze?
« on: September 21, 2013, 01:43:47 PM »
Hi the Lamb type / Chen Shin  tyres fit the Grove or Cleveland std aircraft 5" dia x 5.00 width wheel and calipers  and 1 1/4" dia axles
Such as


For Sale/Wanted / Re: VEZ Cowl Wanted
« on: August 20, 2013, 07:38:47 AM »
Hi - we were in the same position - had a really heavy cowl that was tatty and didnt fit.
So we cut and adapted it using epoxy & glass inside until it fitted & was right shape. Then finished it on the outside with filler until it was smooth  how we wanted it to look. We then made  female moulds of each with cheap polyester resin & chopped glass mat.
Then made new cowls - 2 plies of kevlar/carbon hybrid twill cloth. We trimmed the hybrid cloth 1/2" short of the likely edge and overlapped the hybrid  3- 4 plies of glass at the edges so trimming was a breeze and had a good finish.
Result - perfect fit and weights of 4 lbs top, 4 1/2 lbs bottom.

Very happy with result.

Hangar Flying / Re: VEZ aileron control slop
« on: July 26, 2013, 04:44:30 AM »
In the area behind the passenger stick there should be zero slop/movement. Either the bolts are badly installed with tube bolt holes that are too big or the bolts are loose or the U/J is bad.

Rutan's stick design where the stick cantilevers to one side of the horizontal tube is simple but in my opinion poor and it is very hard to minimise slop while maintaining sufficient freedom to move.

The Cozy front & rear stick design arrangement is a much better design as it straddles the horizontal tube so play is minimised and is better bushed too.

ie parts CZSA and CZSA-2

I have these installed front & rear in my VariEze (with a single rod direct to the elevator ie eliminating the cumbersome & heavy forward  belcrank) and I have zero slop from front stick to aileron.


Hangar Flying / Re: Mounting Location of B & C Regulator
« on: July 24, 2013, 02:41:47 AM »
Hi again Brian

I have mounted mine on the firewall at low level just above the NACA scoop deflector.  This is an area of ambient temp  inlet air with a fair degree of turbulence so the cooling there should actually be very good. I mounted it sideways (wire connector on the side) so the fins are vertical which aids air convection / avoids air stagnation between the fins.

Positioning it in the nose requires running full fore-aft length 3 x #14 wire gauge wires (minimum I'd say to avoid excess voltage drop - the resistance between each pair of blue AC alternator wires is only 0.3 ohms).

Air in the nose may also be a bit warmer and less turbulent there.

A dollop of heat transfer paste between the regulator and the metal firewall  will also directly conduct a fair degree of heat away from the regulator to the large surface area of the firewall which is itself cooled by the incoming ambient air.

If you are really worried, stick a few temperature indicating strips to the regulator body - that will tell you the maximimum temperature that the regulator reaches.

Ultimately the regulator has built-in thermal shut down capability.

I can post / send you a photo shortly if desired.

A great bit of kit!


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