16
Hangar Flying / Dick and Mike
« on: December 27, 2007, 01:05:31 PM »
Allen
What are you looking for?
What are you looking for?
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
17
Hangar Flying / removing the bolt through NG6
« on: December 10, 2007, 10:50:22 AM »
Hi Marc.
I recently installed one of those electric nose lifts and ran into the exact same problem as you have. I even made a hole in the side of the nose so I could get a swing with a 2 Lb hand sledge. It didn't even budge the bolt.
Finally I got it out with a saws-all from the bottom. I used a metal cutting blade. It cut through the bolt in ten seconds.
I recently installed one of those electric nose lifts and ran into the exact same problem as you have. I even made a hole in the side of the nose so I could get a swing with a 2 Lb hand sledge. It didn't even budge the bolt.
Finally I got it out with a saws-all from the bottom. I used a metal cutting blade. It cut through the bolt in ten seconds.
18
Hangar Flying / Micro fill
« on: November 21, 2007, 11:40:08 AM »
David
Sounds like you're doing some work in the garage.
For small area work try an electric heating pad. For larger areas, an electric blanket.
Both are low cost. Just put some construction plactic over the area before you apply the pad.
Rick
Sounds like you're doing some work in the garage.
For small area work try an electric heating pad. For larger areas, an electric blanket.
Both are low cost. Just put some construction plactic over the area before you apply the pad.
Rick
19
Hangar Flying / Temps for the O-320 160hp
« on: September 12, 2007, 02:07:11 PM »
Very good questions Allen. I hope someone address this. My engine does not have bayonet access on the top so I have no choice.
One thought: If the bayonets are on the inside closer to the heat source the spark plug type should theoritically be cooler. (because they are closer to the cooling source) That is if they are mounted on the bottom side as well.
What would the temperature differential be between a Bayonet on the bottom and a spark plug type on the top?
I just finished reading the Schubert/Hertzler PP presentation on this subject and it has given me many things to try after the engine has broken in. I need a good baseline to work from.
In the meantime I'm just going to throttle back to keep the #4 jug below
425 degrees. Incidentally a friend in the Hounduras recently purchased his Long and is running nearly the same set up as you. (O-320, P 51 scoop) I think he is running nearly the same temperatures as you with probes on the bottom.
Contact him at saybeengineering@hughes.net
One thought: If the bayonets are on the inside closer to the heat source the spark plug type should theoritically be cooler. (because they are closer to the cooling source) That is if they are mounted on the bottom side as well.
What would the temperature differential be between a Bayonet on the bottom and a spark plug type on the top?
I just finished reading the Schubert/Hertzler PP presentation on this subject and it has given me many things to try after the engine has broken in. I need a good baseline to work from.
In the meantime I'm just going to throttle back to keep the #4 jug below
425 degrees. Incidentally a friend in the Hounduras recently purchased his Long and is running nearly the same set up as you. (O-320, P 51 scoop) I think he is running nearly the same temperatures as you with probes on the bottom.
Contact him at saybeengineering@hughes.net
20
Hangar Flying / Temps for the O-320 160hp
« on: September 12, 2007, 11:10:44 AM »
While you may be comfortable with the readiings on the bottoms of the cylinders, I found a post indicated that there was as much as a 90 to 100
degree difference between the tops and the bottoms.
I copied it for discussion.
"Well, yesterday I did two things:
1) I installed an aluminum, air deflector in the ram-air box forward of the
filter leaving sufficient space between the filter and the deflector to allow
air to pressurize all faces of the filter more equally.
2) I moved the sparkplug probe from the upper sparkplug of the #2 cylinder to
the lower sparkplug of the #4 cylinder so I could directly measure the delta T
top to bottom.
Today, I flew to measure the effects.
Here are the happy camper results:
1) Upper probe temperatures dropped by 20 to 30 degrees F.
2) Engine performance improved noticeably
3) There was no switching of relative temperatures between #3 and #4 with a
change in throttle position.
4) The delta T measurements showed that the upper TC was indicating - gasp!!-
90 to 100 degrees hotter than the lower TC. Yes, the TCs are calibrated.
I am NOT going to take the easy CHT cooling solution of switching all my probes
to the lower cylinders. Besides, if I did that, my cylinders would probably be
running TOO COLD ;-). I will stick with my current and known arrangement with
the probes on the upper sparkplugs.
The saga continues. That's why the plane is called EXPERIMENTAL."
Marc Borom
LEZ N966EZ
Ryan Field (KRYN)
That being said, on climb out your #3 cylinder temperature on the top could be as high as 475 degrees.
Rick
degree difference between the tops and the bottoms.
I copied it for discussion.
"Well, yesterday I did two things:
1) I installed an aluminum, air deflector in the ram-air box forward of the
filter leaving sufficient space between the filter and the deflector to allow
air to pressurize all faces of the filter more equally.
2) I moved the sparkplug probe from the upper sparkplug of the #2 cylinder to
the lower sparkplug of the #4 cylinder so I could directly measure the delta T
top to bottom.
Today, I flew to measure the effects.
Here are the happy camper results:
1) Upper probe temperatures dropped by 20 to 30 degrees F.
2) Engine performance improved noticeably
3) There was no switching of relative temperatures between #3 and #4 with a
change in throttle position.
4) The delta T measurements showed that the upper TC was indicating - gasp!!-
90 to 100 degrees hotter than the lower TC. Yes, the TCs are calibrated.
I am NOT going to take the easy CHT cooling solution of switching all my probes
to the lower cylinders. Besides, if I did that, my cylinders would probably be
running TOO COLD ;-). I will stick with my current and known arrangement with
the probes on the upper sparkplugs.
The saga continues. That's why the plane is called EXPERIMENTAL."
Marc Borom
LEZ N966EZ
Ryan Field (KRYN)
That being said, on climb out your #3 cylinder temperature on the top could be as high as 475 degrees.
Rick
21
Hangar Flying / Temps for the O-320 160hp
« on: September 10, 2007, 01:08:31 PM »
I see you have the P-51 style scoop. Where are your probes? on the top plugs, bottom plugs or bayonets on the bottom.
There have been many discussions on this.I searched all the forums and the consensus is that on updraft cooling the sensors should be on the top and on down draft cooling, on the bottom. If you have the thermistors on the top and are running the temps that you are, then you have no problems
The "Lycoming" hand book I have on the O 235 and O 290 lists the Cylinder max temps at 500 degrees F and Oil temps at 245 degrees F.
I'm breaking in a completely overhauled engine and still running the break in oil but I too would like to research better cooling. The baffles shown in one of the Cp newsletters did nothing for me. To be fair, I should wait untill the engine has some more hours on it before going further.
I ran the old engine with no CHT probes for 20 years. I was nearing 2000 hours when I had it overhauled so I can't say it was due to any worn out jugs but without the probes I can't say that this was OK to do either.
There have been many discussions on this.I searched all the forums and the consensus is that on updraft cooling the sensors should be on the top and on down draft cooling, on the bottom. If you have the thermistors on the top and are running the temps that you are, then you have no problems
The "Lycoming" hand book I have on the O 235 and O 290 lists the Cylinder max temps at 500 degrees F and Oil temps at 245 degrees F.
I'm breaking in a completely overhauled engine and still running the break in oil but I too would like to research better cooling. The baffles shown in one of the Cp newsletters did nothing for me. To be fair, I should wait untill the engine has some more hours on it before going further.
I ran the old engine with no CHT probes for 20 years. I was nearing 2000 hours when I had it overhauled so I can't say it was due to any worn out jugs but without the probes I can't say that this was OK to do either.
22
Hangar Flying / Need a good cover that covers tha canard
« on: September 10, 2007, 12:53:47 PM »
Hi Allen
I finished my Long in 1986 and it has been outside since day one.
There are many things I've learned over the years. Too much to list here.
Contact me at your leisure. Rglos721@comcast.net
Oh, by the way congratualtions on your purchase.
Rick
I finished my Long in 1986 and it has been outside since day one.
There are many things I've learned over the years. Too much to list here.
Contact me at your leisure. Rglos721@comcast.net
Oh, by the way congratualtions on your purchase.
Rick
23
Hangar Flying / Looking for Help in Buying My Dream
« on: August 24, 2007, 11:30:30 AM »
I am 62 and have had my Long EZ for 21 yeas now.
I will trade it for your wife................Just kidding
Considering the budget and time, you should think about building. You can set aside what amounts to a car payment to yourself each month and buy materials as you need them. That's what most of us have done.
Building is a rewarding experience. Just as much as owning and flying.
In the next four years you will have the plane of your dreams,( if it is a Long EZ type) will have built it yourself and will proably be under that 18k + 10 to 20K (Bonus) budget. You will have a 401 K worth twice what it is today. You can involve the family in the build phase and double up on your accomplishment and enjoyment.
I started with RC models as well so building will not be a needed skill set.
The "Open EZ" drawings and terf CD of the plans will get things started.
In the end you will have literally "Made" your dream come true. Just be patient.
Your kids will be able to say "My dad is building a real airplane and I am helping." What is that worth?
The only downside is that you will have to banish the cars from the garage for a few years.
Think about it.
Rick
I will trade it for your wife................Just kidding
Considering the budget and time, you should think about building. You can set aside what amounts to a car payment to yourself each month and buy materials as you need them. That's what most of us have done.
Building is a rewarding experience. Just as much as owning and flying.
In the next four years you will have the plane of your dreams,( if it is a Long EZ type) will have built it yourself and will proably be under that 18k + 10 to 20K (Bonus) budget. You will have a 401 K worth twice what it is today. You can involve the family in the build phase and double up on your accomplishment and enjoyment.
I started with RC models as well so building will not be a needed skill set.
The "Open EZ" drawings and terf CD of the plans will get things started.
In the end you will have literally "Made" your dream come true. Just be patient.
Your kids will be able to say "My dad is building a real airplane and I am helping." What is that worth?
The only downside is that you will have to banish the cars from the garage for a few years.
Think about it.
Rick
24
Hangar Flying / Life on the ramp
« on: June 21, 2007, 09:10:04 AM »
Allen
I can't afford those $300+ hangars so I have been on the ramp in Chicago for 21 years. For some years I used a cover, most years not. I found that covers trap dust underneath on dry days and that dust clings to the underside on wet ones. when the wind blows the cover then acts like a cloth with rubbing compound on it.
That is using the cover for 4 months straight..
I have kept it in fairly decent condition with good coats of wax on the surface. At least 2-3 times a year.
I can't afford those $300+ hangars so I have been on the ramp in Chicago for 21 years. For some years I used a cover, most years not. I found that covers trap dust underneath on dry days and that dust clings to the underside on wet ones. when the wind blows the cover then acts like a cloth with rubbing compound on it.
That is using the cover for 4 months straight..
I have kept it in fairly decent condition with good coats of wax on the surface. At least 2-3 times a year.
25
Hangar Flying / linear actuators/electric gear source.
« on: May 21, 2007, 10:01:19 AM »
Try this web site.
http://www.firgelliauto.com/default.php?cPath=79&osCsid=c1f4b37d70921b61076927fc46886779
Read the specs carefully
The actuators come in different force ratings and each have different times to extend and retract.
http://www.firgelliauto.com/default.php?cPath=79&osCsid=c1f4b37d70921b61076927fc46886779
Read the specs carefully
The actuators come in different force ratings and each have different times to extend and retract.
26
Hangar Flying / Seeking information about long-ez in community hanger @ KVAY
« on: May 11, 2007, 09:03:58 AM »
Wow! Did you see the empty weight of 1046 lbs for a Long with a O 235 L2C. That seems on the heavy side. Maybe the filler material was the problem not only for the paint but weight as well.
That is something that may be easily remidied. Sand it down and re-paint it and you have a good to go airplane again
That is something that may be easily remidied. Sand it down and re-paint it and you have a good to go airplane again
27
Hangar Flying / Fuel hose questions for the A&P's
« on: March 03, 2007, 04:02:45 PM »
I have a question on fuel lines.
I have been using the Aeroquip 303 hoses for fuel lines and they have been on for 20 years.
They seem fine but is there a replacement schedule?
How long should they be good for?
I have no problem in replacing these.
I have been using the Aeroquip 303 hoses for fuel lines and they have been on for 20 years.
They seem fine but is there a replacement schedule?
How long should they be good for?
I have no problem in replacing these.
28
Hangar Flying / Speed brake
« on: March 02, 2007, 01:02:28 PM »
I have a couple of questions to those who use the electric speed brakes.
How fast are they to deploy? 1 second, 2, 3 or more?
How much force is needed to push the speed brake down.
I am looking at some linear motors.
There is a speedbrake kit out there, but the price is close to $500.
A 4" stroke linear motor can be had for $120 w/limit switches but the time and force needs to be reconciled.
How fast are they to deploy? 1 second, 2, 3 or more?
How much force is needed to push the speed brake down.
I am looking at some linear motors.
There is a speedbrake kit out there, but the price is close to $500.
A 4" stroke linear motor can be had for $120 w/limit switches but the time and force needs to be reconciled.
29
Hangar Flying / CHT/EGT Probes
« on: November 06, 2006, 09:47:11 AM »
Speaking of CHT probes is there a consensus on where to put them, upper or lower. I heard that with updraft cooling the probes should go\on the tops of the cyclinders or away from the cooling air.
As I go through these forums I se people put them with the Bayonet probes on the bottom and naturally they report sometimes 100 degrss cooler. I had mine on the top under the sparkplugs and had the same switch problem as well as the wires coming apart at the hoops.
On the first issue what gives?
As I go through these forums I se people put them with the Bayonet probes on the bottom and naturally they report sometimes 100 degrss cooler. I had mine on the top under the sparkplugs and had the same switch problem as well as the wires coming apart at the hoops.
On the first issue what gives?
30
Hangar Flying / Garmin Antenna
« on: October 26, 2006, 08:24:47 AM »
I'd like some pictures of these ram mounts. no hurry.
I re-did the entire panel to make room in the upper left corner. it's viewable but hard to see at this distance. I would like it closer
rglos@msn.com
I re-did the entire panel to make room in the upper left corner. it's viewable but hard to see at this distance. I would like it closer
rglos@msn.com