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Messages - Bill James

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Hangar Flying / Re: what runway length do you operate from?
« on: April 02, 2009, 11:51:42 AM »
The question may be about ground roll, but I agree with you Beagle, considering runway length, "It is not the climb but the getting to 80 mph and then having a failure that sets the length." Your thought on landing short and aborting, I try to make most landings without adding power, either adjusting ground track or admitting that at a particular point in the approach, that with no engine response, the runway wouldn't be reached; and immediately adding power and correcting. 
I usta could enter the 6000 ft runway pattern at 200mph and land, maybe float a little, and roll to the last turnoff without braking. Short field landings were occasionally practiced, usually when the pants were off for tire replacement. Plenty of room for fully loaded takeoffs, probably even with your point Beagle, an abort.
Now, operating out of a 4000 ft airstrip, sloping, with hills off the end, things are different. More fun actually. Here the pants are always on, so speed on final must also be "on", along with TE Fences and vortilons on, and me on my toes. Key point is the abeam position, where you must basically be at the speed you want on short final. Turbulence from trees and buildings along the sides has the sidestick stirring gently and continually, even after touchdown, holding the nose up for aerodynamic braking. Cool weather makes me feel smart and talented. Soon, like last summer, in the heat I will wonder if I've lost the magic touch.

As to the ground roll element of this question, actually weight, from hanging around for a few years, I also default to a more significant element than runway length, rather to the effect of that weight on ground roll after a forced landing. As mentined, hitting something on takeoff is fairly rare. My more extended concern is engine failure after takeoff. From training and by choice, every takeoff is made with the expectation that the engine is going to quit.
Rather than minimizing the takeoff roll, I am intent on getting to 150 mph or so for the climbout. Before that point there are few if any options. With that energy, a guy can do a little of that pilot stuff before flaring for the touchdown. Most folks will remember that the Eze needs about 22 mph above minimum speed to trade off to reduce the rate of descent. So I default to 100mph for best range and 90 as a minimum forced landing maneuvering speed, where at that magic moment in the powerless landing the wings would be leveled and the plane would be flown all the way throught the emergency.
Thus runway length is less a consideration than an engine failure, as in any airplane. I read an instructor's comments in AOPA I believe, paraphrased here, that most folks on short climbout in a Cessna 150 or 172, with loss of power, would not be aware enough of the significant force and effort required to push the nose over far enough to retain or regain enough airspeed to accomplish an acceptable landing.

Lots of good answers prior to mine. So what was the question?  Runway length? Takeoff roll? As in any aircraft, I think about getting off the ground and into the air with energy very intensely until scooting along at a coupla thousand feet. I like Drew's Eze runway comment, "any condition/airfield east of the Mississippi." And we're doing OK over here to the west.
All things considered, the Eze is still the one.
Good question Flyboy.

Hangar Flying / Re: Fire. My plane is burning ~ Yesterday
« on: January 20, 2009, 04:49:30 PM »
Cool head, good reactions.
We are all susceptible to fuel pooling to some degree. The plans and CPs call for a drain hole in the system low points, including the cowl.
- A couple of supporting comments. Our induction system must drain collected fuel in any position. My carb inlet system is extremely simple consisting of an air inlet in the cowl and a 90 degree duct to the carb. Collected fuel as you described during start can simply drain down and out. If not on level ground, it could drain into the lower cowl so there is also a drain hole at that low point in the cowl.

I heard the story of a fire on the strake cap area during fueling that was swatted out with a hat. I have a Halon fire extinguisher mounted in the left strake, and a swatting towel. And usually a hat.

Related to the fire extinguisher, there is a tube running along the consoles from my arm rest back to the fire wall. There it connects to a metal tube through the firewall aimed at the engine where i would most expect a fire, but it should fill the cowl. The extinguisher nozzle and the inside diameter of the tube match. So the extinguisher can be used on the ground directly on a fire or into the cowl, or connected to the tube and put into the cowl in flight. For breathing in flight after discharging the extinguisher in the cowl there is an air inlet and breathing tube.

There is a Fire Warning system installed on the plane. A light on the panel has an insulated wire that goes back through the firewall plus about ten feet. At the firewall a different bare wire is connected to the ground junction and twined along with the insulated wire, which are routed around the engine. They are both ground wires, just not connected. If the insulation melts and they touch, the panel light will come on. It has been suggested that at that point, I would panic and crash. Rather, I would hope to have the presence of mind to confer with a wingman or turn to observe trailing smoke before fainting.

Good note Dave-

Hangar Flying / Re: What system to use?
« on: January 12, 2009, 09:40:20 AM »
Another vote for EZ Poxy

Hangar Flying / Re: Downdraft cooling and the landing brake
« on: December 18, 2008, 03:46:20 PM »
OK here goes too  :)
After reading your note several times i have some images in mind, probably totally different from yours. I imagine several intake twists and turns. So a couple of thoughts on cooling air in general, after 500 hours of trouble free DD cooling:
An interesting guest-
A lot of interesting people have leaned on my prop and explained how these airplanes really work. Little known secrets of props, exhaust tuning, cylinder cooling, oil cooling... some useful, some not so much.
One of the most interesting guests loved airplanes but had never been around them or flown one. He looked over the engine and examined my cylinder cooling, oil cooling, and induction tubing. He talked out loud as he figured it all out. His absent-minded comments were fascinating. Surprised at his ability to follow it all, i asked what he did. He said he traveled around the country fixing swimming pool filter installations. He said his corrections usually consist of removing 90 degree elbows. He said that often the installing crews dont really care if it works and just do basic installation. Removing the 90 and replacing it with a curve or a couple of 45 joints usually does the trick. I still enjoy chewing on his last comment- that none of the work is really done by the pump. It is the 14.7 lb/in2, one atmosphere, doing the work. All he did was get things out of the way that interfere with mother nature.
Aircraft cooling is more complex but i find the simple truth useful when my Rube Goldberg virus kicks in. Air and fluids don't like turns. I could make many more descriptive comments about what air does do, one of the truly enjoyable results of having built this plane.
My cylinder cooling has two basic elements. One, the simple, expanding inlets, and two, augmented exhaust. Pics in Featured Canards link here. Some changes but same basic components.
The inlets are each 1x5 inches.  They each started out as external 2x9 gorilla nostrils. Those were reduced three times. Tests were run wide open at 2000 ft on 100 degree days. No increase in CHTs with the reductions. Then the inlets were made internal, and reduced three more times. I got a slight increase in CHT with the last reduction. Wide open CHTs at 2000 ft  settle at 390. Climbout to 10K, the CHTs start at 390 and reduce to 280 to 320 at 10K peak mixture cruise. So with the cool cruise temps the inlet size could be reduced a little more. Probably not right now.
The exhausts end inside the lower plenums. The exhaust pulls and propells air out the plenum exits. Air has to replace the ejected air and is drawn in the inlets. At idle the flow will suck a string into the inlet. With the plenums the air has to go throught the cylinder fins.  So good cooling on the ground too. A friend used to have cooling problems and in hot wx had to shut down and push the plane back to the hangar. He copied my system and was amazed. Once he just went to see if he could sit and idle for 30 minutes. No problem. He came over and told me he thought i had been lieing about my cooling, until he saw it on his plane.
All to say, sounds like your UD/DD mix would have a few twists and turns. One could be enough to make your stomach tighten up on hot days. And following the work Terry Schubert documented in CSA, cylinder wraps on a DD installation could likely give you proper cooling for the cylinders around the exhaust valves.
The Hertzler/Schubert Oshkosh cooling powerpoint slideshow is available here on somewhere i think. It covers it all in a nutshell.
Through the several years with my system, I can't overheat the engine. It occurs to me that i could have aimed a little more toward the middle and settled for more normal cooling, but then the 31 flights in 31 days during this summer wouldn't have been as comfortable.  And what did i build this plane for anyway, straight and level?
Hope i didn't miss your point too much. Thanks for the chance to take a run at it.

Hangar Flying / Re: Ready to start a new long ez aircraft
« on: December 18, 2008, 10:20:31 AM »
Since you have mentioned setting up your workshop several times, want to mention work shop heating and invite suggestions for dos and dont's. A friend used a kerosene space heater while laying up the two exterior UNI layers on the fuselage. Later when he started cutting out the speed brake the outer UNI layer started delaminating and with very little effort, peeled right off. One possible cause could have been the epoxy in the first layer starting to set up too much, but he didn't feel that was the issue. He did get several comments about the space heaters generating humidity that could cause the problem of the second layer not bonding to the first. He sanded the first layer and applied the second without further problems. Any similar experiences or solid info?

Hangar Flying / Re: How many hours to complete a Long Ez?
« on: December 04, 2008, 01:13:44 AM »
I know of a Cozy that was built in about 15 months, but with a very adaptable work schedule. Never have been in that good of a work situation myself. Numbers of hours building has never been a useful reference for me. During the five years i found a comfort zone that has worked in several areas of my life, where i told myself that I could fly the airplane in two months if i really pushed. The List was satisfying because it was always there in front of me with more and more items marked off and eventyally fewer added and remaining. Sure enough, along the way I finished in two months. Satisfaction and happiness are funny things. I got comfortable once the parts were stacked in the garage. I never expected the plane to make me happy. That was already done. At first it seems like everyone is flying but you. Once you are building you are part of the movement. You are overwhelmed and frustrated with a half finished airplane, not aware that hundreds or maybe thousands would be thrilled to be where you are in that dusty workshop. When you are flying, you still won't be satisfied, but you will be in the middle of something amazing--satisfied and happy to your chosen level, and , still not finished. The Eze group is different than you expect. Better. Bet you find what you are lookig for, but it won't be from counting hours.

Hangar Flying / Re: Ready to start a new long ez aircraft
« on: December 03, 2008, 08:33:14 PM »
A couple of suggestions while building-
Consider installing the front seat bulkhead at 37 degrees. I think this is from a test done in the 90s where every pilot chose this as the most comfortable angle. Slightly less angle is easier on the front neck muscles. I have an 8 degree wedge for the seatback made of the 1/2 inch console foam and one layer of BID. With a slight trim of the foam on top or bottom before glassing the seat-back could just be installed at that angle in the first place. It is a structural bulkhead so installation would be per plans. If i had done this during construction i would keep the top of the seat at the same place and move the bottom back slightly. Another person might choose the opposite and avoid minor adjustments to the belly board installation.
Consider having the canopy leading edge aft of the instrument panel. Then the top of the instrument panel can be structurally joined inside the top fuselage with corner tapes fore and aft. That adds strenth and allows an access hatch to the instruments forward of the instrument panel.
My canard cover is not attached to the canard and is a hollow storage compartment (sectional maps for the coast i am not on-in a baggie), and allows easier canard installation. Walls fore and aft of the canard cover keep things from falling inside or into the elevator tubes. Those two removable access panels plus the nose hatch are held in place by two pins (1/8 inch stainless welding rods) in plastic tubing going forward through the instrument panel and forward inside the top skin, going through the hatches along their top inside skin. All done after the fuselage nose and canopy were built. Most folks are glad they installed a rain drip rail on the lip forward of the front canopy edge. (A note here - often someone will object to having the canard cover detachable because of supposed loss of strength in the structure there. The proper concern is actually when the top area over the instrument panel is made to be removeable. Not what i am talking about. I have actually strengthened this area by tieing in the top of the instrument panel with structural corner tapes fore and aft).
I have a false floor under the front seat to get the contour i want and save cushion depth and weight.
I have one inch more leg hole width through the instrument panel. Made all of the side consoles 1/2 inch closer to the fuselage walls. The throttle fit the narrower console, the speedbrake arm fit with a shorter bolt, and the right sidestick and torque tubes also operate properly. Primary change was to remove 1/2 inch off the inside of the plywood mount for the sidestick where it mounts to the right fuselage wall. And make the torque tube hole throught the right seat bulkhead wider. The LongEZ has the fuselage wall glass to glass with the foam removed by the sidestick for more knuckle room - i have plexiglass windows. Of course, confirm acceptable operation before installing.   
These things are minor and will be a drop in the bucket compared to the months of added construction time that will be added by other simple things you will think of  :)   I filled four notebooks of ideas while waiting to build. Not using them litterally saved me a ton.
A friendly but strong encouragement - find and read "The List" in the EZ Chronicles on the home page here. Helped me fly about 8 years sooner.
Best to you-

Hangar Flying / Re: Stuck Valve
« on: November 21, 2008, 08:08:27 PM »
Thanks, good luck with the motor-

Hangar Flying / Stuck Valve
« on: November 20, 2008, 10:09:08 PM »

In the spirit of Thanksgiving, an EZ Chronicle from the past-
Friday afternoon, of a three day weekend.
Somewhere in the middle of northern Georgia.
I give the engine three more starts hoping it will exorcize itself of the recalcitrant valve. But the valve stays stuck. It had stuck once before at Kanab a few months back, and had fixed itself on the restart. But not this time.
Over there in the FBO hangar the two young A&Ps see me pushing the VariEze their way. It’s close to quitting time on a holiday weekend and they waste no time getting out of Dodge. Spraying gravel behind his multi-primered Fiero, one of them sticks his head out the window and yells “The Boss, Charlie, is across the runway. He’ll be back over here pretty soon. The hangar is open, use any of the tools you want.”

The FBO hangar is well equipped and everything is well used. Cool enough inside here. I get the cowls off and start unscrewing some valve covers hoping to save some time on the mechanic’s clock figuring out which valve is stuck. Assuming he does make it back over here. My goose is cooked. It’ll probably cost me the whole weekend, and some big bucks. Bet he owns the motel back in town, if there is one. Bet his brother-in-law owns the rental car agency, if there is one.

During every annual inspection I have a couple of A&Ps stop in to work on the engine a little, set the valves, check the timing, or just look the engine over. I always learn something. Watching this master at work today will make this session one of the best.

Charlie walks in and sets some tools on the work bench.
“Stuck valve, huh? I heard it from across the runway.”
Leaning  past my efforts to remove a valve cover, he puts the palm of his hand on each of the four valve covers.
"Here’s your problem right here, number 2."
OK…I’m catching on. Stuck valve, no flow, temperature…three hot, one not…he’s done this before.

In the next thirty minutes he says only a couple of words.
He moves to the tool chest and purposefully selects several tools. He removes the #2 valve cover and I remove all of the top spark plugs. With the switches confirmed off he pulls the prop through watching the two valves. He puts a finger on the exhaust stem and nods.

After securing the prop to keep it from turning he twists an air chuck into the spark plug hole and pressurizes the cylinder. He puts a pry tool on the valve spring and nods for me to hold it. He deftly removes the valve keepers and sets them and the spring on the bench. He taps on the valve stem with a rubber hammer. It's stuck. He quietly says Yep.

With a wooden dowel he taps on the end of the stem. It moves in and is pushed back out by the air pressure. I think we are both hoping it will free up by just tapping on it and loosening it up. But no go. He gets it to move a couple more times but it is sticking. With the wood dowel he taps the valve and it falls clanking into the cylinder. I catch my breath.

It’s Friday afternoon of a long weekend. The valve fell in. We are going to be pulling a cylinder. His brother in law surely owns the car rental place. Dollar signs ratchet across my eyes. No way I’ll be meeting the family in Fort Payne today. Maybe not even tomorrow.

But he doesn’t miss a beat. It doesn’t seem to bother him at all that the valve fell into the cylinder. He is rummaging around in a small drawer, looking at one drill bit and then another. Turns out they are “reamers.”  He trial fits several of them into the valve hole, selects one and chucks it in a drill. He takes a stance beside the engine, positioning his feet and crooking his neck around like a batter at the plate. He deftly positions the drill and gently works the reamer in and out of the valve hole.
He extends one pencil magnet and slides it down the plug hole and slides another extended magnet in through the valve hole. He fishes around for a half minute or so, then delicately, with his little fingers up, magically pulls the valve into position, one magnet pulling the tip into the hole and one magnet lifting the stem. Spectacular. I start breathing again.

He pressurizes the cylinder and taps on the valve stem. He unhooks the air hose and pushes on the stem with his finger. No smile yet. He finds the wooden dowel and taps the stem once, twice, three times, and the valve clangs down into the cylinder again. Good grief. And I thought we were out of the woods.

He picks up the drill, repositions in his stance and gently reworks the valve hole a couple of times. He inserts the two pencil magnets into the cylinder and works them around and glides the valve up into place again. With the cylinder pressurized he taps the stem with the rubber hammer. The valve moves in and out. He takes the air hose off and pushes the valve stem in with his finger and pulls it out with the magnet. Nice. He smiles.

With the cylinder pressurized he positions the spring compression tool and nods for me to hold it. He slips in the spring, washer and retainers.
Replacing the valve cover he says, “Do you need a receipt?”
I say no.
He says “That’ll be fifty bucks”.
Dinner in Fort Payne is good. As is the valve, from then on.
Michelangelo lives.

Hangar Flying / Thirty Days
« on: October 24, 2008, 09:18:58 PM »
Several responses were started to SAF_Zoom and his "Hi new to the forum", but i will just post this developing note.

Thirty Days
Thirty days have September, April, June and November.
All the rest have thirty one, as does my log book.
-Thirty-one flights in thirty-one days.
-Three sunrises, the rest mostly sunsets.
-A one hundred degree flyby for the Horseshoe Bend EAA ice cream social.
-A couple of flights in mostly clear skies in the cool of evening between wispy, drifting curtains of rain.
-A sunset entry at Oshkosh,
-And a sunset arrival back home.
The 31 days got started with a four day run. That was enough to inspire going for seven straight. Then fourteen straight. At that point I risked generating a jinx by mentioning out loud what I was going to try to do.
I wonder, what is the potential of engendering a jinx by announcing the thirty days out loud. Luck these days is less sought after. Unearned luck is the young man’s ally. Now, rather, flying through the Eze’s thirteenth year, common dogged gumption serves as a steady and desired partner. Durability its own moniker. 
During some past lives I would have been happy to fly 31 times in a year. That much flying in one month is addicting. Some things improve day by day. Like the sunset therapy. Some things accelerate, like tire life. Some things that vibrate show up quicker. Some things show their value, like confidence in a good airframe. Some demonstrate the value of the time that went into fabrication, like one minute cowls.
The 33 hours is much less than the cattle herding days, but close to my monthly military average. Those helos or the T-28 make the Eze fuel burn almost thrilling. Sitting here I remember in 1976 seeing the diminutive and audacious N7EZ on the cover Air Progress. 180 mph for $4000.  How many promises from that era have held their value?
One day I’m putting the Eze away, loading the lead-filled inner tube ballasts in the nose. A neighbor rumbles up to help. I scan back over the plane, looking at it as he is going to see it. To me, the machine is a raucous steed being brushed down after a brilliant run, actually a season of runs, to be bedded down for the day. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and often only skin deep. Surely so with airplanes.
The cowls come off after almost every flight. They aren’t worn like the armrests, but do have a few dings. As he walks up I’m thinking that maybe they should have been kept in gray primer. Instead they were painted with the rest of the plane at the last minute, but are still on the list to be repainted for real later.
The lower cowl is pretty scarred. The dozen or so inlets and exit wounds will eventually be grafted back to lighter simpler smoothness. Each scar marks progress or failure during the deliberate oil cooling process. A productive pastime and favorable memory resulting with oil temp as a non issue this summer.
The meticulous visitor first comments on the nice paint job. But once he sees the masking tape holding on the TE Fences, any further conversation is muddled. After the visit, as the visitor goes out the hangar door the masking tape will get one last worried glance. But soon the Fences will get final paint and proper mounting and we will be slightly more socially acceptable.
Finishing up, the light cotton cover slips on over the nose and pulls back over the cowl. A good fluff settles into that sleek shape. I tap a knuckle along the wing on the way to turn out the hangar lights. With the flick of the switch the image of the winged porpoise dissolves into darkness. Life is good.
-Today, flight thirty-one skims the open ranchlands. The visuals and smoothness of the flight are alluringly soft, illuminated through light reddish yellow layers and bronzetone haze.
At the apex of a wingover a glowing winglet is captured as its shadow passes over the camera.
From behind the sinking sun highlights the home base air strip ahead. A silent 200 mph overhead entry lofts over the top. Stretching out ahead on the eastern horizon, grey cloud bottoms are lighting up pink and maroon. Carving wide through the downwind, yellow/silver spokes spray across to the far horizon.  The panorama glows over my shoulder, deepens and pulls the canard along through the glide to base. I feel like I am just along for the ride. Banking toward final turns us directly into the wide screen spectacular. A reach for the camera stops midway and instead the vision just permeates the grey matter.
On final, He’s not done. A go-around is called, for a gentle pull up and back around again through the encore. The canard surfaces light up a bronze halo around the canopy. The golden sun touches the earth and dissolves into the black horizon. Final is milked for every breath of lift, drifting to touchdown below the silvery guard of old man moon.
Thirty days have September, April, June and November. Now that’s a plan.

Hangar Flying / Re: Landing gear bow repair
« on: August 18, 2008, 09:24:06 PM »

Grind (and/or saw) a taper on the bad strut up the inside and outside, about 15 to 18 inches. “Scarf” on glass UNI layers on the sides of the strut. If you need to, take a quick look at how they scarf wood joints. It simply allows a long joint.
Make a mold. Suspend and level the plane with a few inches of space under the main tire locations. The areas under the main wheels should be level relative to each other for accurate axle installation later. Duct tape the inside of the strut for release. Make a simple, quick 24 inch tall mold of the inside of the strut using two layers of BID. This mold will provide a basic shape and include a general location for the axle and the end of the strut.
Yes the shape of the mold is reversed if you have to use the good strut. Use the actual broken strut in place on the bad leg to make the mold if you can. Just do the best you can and move on. Once the basic strut core is reconstructed it can be shaped more precisely. Extend the mold to the floor, using any hard scrap material for the extension.
More detail on tapering the bad strut- Mark the longitudinal center on the bottom of the broken strut with a magic marker. That center line mark should remain indicating the center of your new layup. Grind a 15 to 18 inch taper up on each side. You want a rough surface.
Use LongEZ spar UNI glass tape, from AC Spruce. Start the layups on the inside of the strut with long lengths. Extend below the bottom mark.  Additional lengths get slightly shorter from the top, extending below where the bottom of the strut will be. The layup should be on the wet side per EZ practice. Add flox initially to the epoxy for the rough tapered area, and a moderate amount of flox thereafter so it will still penetrate the UNI adequately.
Us a hair dryer every few layers. Periodically lay on peel ply and trial fit the 2 ply BID mold. In this process you can remove the mold and peel ply and add layers to shape to your satisfaction and try the mold again. Avoid air pockets of course. A squeegee is a good tool with the hair dryer, gently stroking up.
If you are artistic you can do this free hand using the peel ply and tape to mold the shape. Good luck. The mold is highly recommended.
With the inside layers on good and peel ply-ed, the mold can be bondo-ed to the floor. This provides a relatively accurate shape and secure support. After cure the outside layers can be added. Or with the mold secure they can be added now if you want. In my experience the epoxy was hardening enough that the UNI stayed in place. But the glob of glass strands could all slide down and plop to the floor if you aren’t holding your tongue right.
After cure remove the exterior glass wraps around the upper strut as high as practical and blend and finish the strut shape. Replace the exterior wraps per plans. Install the axle and all else per plans.
Read this multiple times and get all of the other advice you can. Focus on getting the axle area correct during the layup. Have a helper or two. The strut is tough. Plan your work so you all stay clean and cool and uncontaminated by the grinding dust, even after an hour or two when you are exhausted and your back and knees are out of sorts and just want to be done. A fan will often times actually pull the dust back around onto you. Eye protection! I insist on using a vacuum to capture the dust. This is a quick note, improve on it.
I have performed this on three canards, thankfully for others. Nothin to it.

So Senor Jose gets to play MacGyver again! I hear that he can gnaw out a new bracket with his teeth   :)

Hangar Flying / Dancin' Dave Sold His Airplane
« on: June 27, 2008, 03:33:27 PM »
Hangar 30 sure is quiet...

-Bill James

Hangar Flying / Varieze Fuel Vent
« on: June 07, 2008, 08:57:15 AM »
The fuel vents can be continued down to exit in front of the gear legs.
Their drag is insignificant there and fuel doesn't drain onto the gear legs.

I've heard that while the boundary layer thickness can vary, 1/2 inch is
good for our  purposes. With 3/4 inch distance to start, adjustments closer or away
from the fuselage have worked to balance the fuel flow. My strake vent lines
dont join, but go up in front of the spar and over inside the turtledeck
or whatever the space behind the passenger's head is called,
to the opposite strake.

Hangar Flying / Looking for Help in Buying My Dream
« on: June 02, 2008, 08:24:19 PM »
This thread takes me several places.
One, remembering when it took a lifetime to get to 'someday'.
Two, remembering the day-to-day eze building experience as good, and missing it, a little.
Three, knowing builders of other types that also take on a weekend re-do project and
end up still not back in the air three years later. It's not just ezes, or airplanes...
Four, from plans to flying, for a couple of bucks a day. The time would have passed
even if i hadn't built all those little pieces and parts.
As you get your new beauty flying, may i suggest a re-read of "The List" on the
home page EZ Chronicles link. Still works for me.
The sunset was spectacular yesterday. A shorter runway is a welcome ongoing challenge.
Kinda like building...

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