Author Topic: Forward hatch latch/release  (Read 4123 times)

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Offline atfloyd

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Forward hatch latch/release
« on: May 08, 2007, 06:34:27 PM »
Hey folks...I have built an extended nose with "C" type hinges for the forward hatch.  I need to see if anyone has a latch design or ideas to that effect for the forward hatch.  I need a design that will release from the side via a cable inside the fues.  I have seen them out there but can't seem to track one down.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks


Offline flyingwaldo

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Forward hatch latch/release
« Reply #1 on: May 08, 2007, 08:56:15 PM »
These folks have a very nice latch system though somewhat pricey:
You might check out a Pick and Pull yard to get a gas filler door latch off a late model car and get it to work much cheaper?  
I wanted to do this on my oil filler door but that's on a piece of removeable cowling and opens a whole other can of worms....

Offline Bruce Hughes

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Forward hatch latch/release
« Reply #2 on: May 09, 2007, 12:49:16 AM »
Hi Allen.

I am not planning to send you any pictures; I don't know if my new
design will really work.   I don't want someone else to make the
same mistake I may be making.

All that I can say is: (1) the front of the hatch has one pin that
inserts into the underside of the top surface of the nose and
(2) there are 2 latches in the back, one on each side.   I also
plan to use a "safety" latch for the 1st 100 hours, just in case.

Anyway I initially had a pair of "C" shaped hinges on the hatch.
Those were copied from someone's club design.    I found that
they hit the top of the battery.   So I was forced to move the
battery back or throw away the hinges.

I threw away the hinges.   Lot of work for nothing.   Watch for that

Bruce Hughes
Yelm, WA
Longeze N199BH
taught at Maui Community College

Offline ezeguy440ez

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hatch latch
« Reply #3 on: May 24, 2007, 07:49:56 PM »
Ok I made mine from a belden choke cable kit you get at Auto zone or any other auto parts store. mount the cable pull in a convienient place. as a realeas pin i use a AN 3 bolt ground a point on it drilled the head to accept the cable and floxed it in place using nyla flow tube. the pin slides between the 2 tubes .one tube is on the lid and the other would be on the canard cover. I put the wire thru the hole in the pin bent it over and it works like a champ. Hope this makes sense.